My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. Hope this helps! Otherwise, if removing the air cleaner eliminates the whistle then try to use a thicker gasket or try lightly greasing the gasket. That will at least tell you something. sniper Installation If you're installing a Sniper EFI system and almost ready to crank it over for the first time, this is the video for you! Your issues are likely related to one of these two things. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. You'll have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it just right. You could go either way.. The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. I think in some of the Wizards with the handheld it doesn't use 57.5 as the default. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). Thank you so much for your follow-up. Also if I give it a When you first posted this I had no idea how to respond. It felt like it was flooding out at low speed, low. Ultimately, it is about making the pedal softer, particularly at initial throttle opening. Only in the unlikely event that your engine simply won't run well enough to drive and self-learn should you consider tweaking anything inside of the first several hundred miles. I haven't driven it for the 30-40 minutes like the several times it idled at 2200. Possibly cap, rotor, coil? Make sure that your blanking level is _below_ that (being careful not to find yourself in the situation I describe above.) I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. Hey Chris! Technically it is a warranty-voiding maneuver so proceed at your own risk. Everything was working perfectly and I shut off the engine. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. TP range is normal goes up to about 90% with throttle pedal to the floor. Ensure all your sensors are displaying proper values. We are running a Sniper on my mates 355ci small block V8 & so far he is very impressed ! Thanks for the info Chris. That's what you're seeing. No air should be able to pass. I managed to get the IAC down to around 0% - 8%is this good? I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. When you experience this, before you touch anything or shut the engine down, first look at your TPS and your IAC. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. And so glad you guys are enjoying the Sniper EFI system. No, the idle speed curve setting isn't something that you normally worry about--and especially not down at minus 40 degrees farenheit. If i set the idle to 750, the only way i can get it there is to turn the idle screw all the way out but then its at 0 iac. Ensure that the secondary linkage is completely closed (both visually and manually.). Hello. SNIPER EFI TO HOLLEY DUAL SYNC HARNESS Part# 558-493 $34.44 Qty: Add To Cart Idle Air Control Motor Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems Part# 543-105 $71.72 Qty: Add To Cart This value is itself enough to raise the idle a bit. $107.95. If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. Tuning > Advanced > Adv Idle > IAC Startup Thank you in advance for your help and providing us rookies with your Any ideas here? To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. As always, I recommend great restraint in changing any of the parameters until a significant amount of learning has taken place. Some suggestions: i did have the same problem.try lengthening the lever of the throttle.meaning the length from the center of the throttle to the point where you attach your cable or your rod from the peddle. The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. issue. New install, when in setup wizard TPS says 90 percent and I checked the linkage and butterflies. Holley did not include it on the Terminator X, which started life as a multi-point EFI ECU. If the connection is loose it will cause the system to shut fuel off because the signal telling the EFI the motor is turning stops (to prevent excess fuel from being dumped in the motor). It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. It may take a few tries. The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. You can find those settings here: Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Rampdown, Software: Idle > IAC Settings > IAC Ramp Down. Perfectif you have the original synchronous linkage. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. Im thinking a faulty TPS. If your fuel pressure regulator has failed (and they often fail by blocking return fuel and maxing your fuel pressure) then it could lead to rich idle, particularly until your engine gets up to temp. Your comment doesn't imply any sort of problem that would make me give up on idle timing control. Honestly, I've never seen this happen but if the butterflies were misaligned on the shafts it could allow too much air to enter. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. Chris, I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block Going back to what you said. A common issue we see is a result of poor fuel pump grounding running a eyelet from the pump ground to a rusty or painted surface. I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. I would recommend that you call first thing in the morning, as they tend to get quite busy during the day and wait times can get long. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? Your AFR is pegged lean. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. However, I have never found that to be the case. If you go the other way then you might find that the IAC zero's out when the fans are off. Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. Ensure there isn't a vacuum leak causing the IAC Position to drop to 0%. (It should be at or near 60 PSI at idle. It does this with the engine off. If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. I set the AFR at 13.5 and all is good now. It is a common one. I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. Give them a call and if they are unable to provide customer support the contact the Holley tech support line at 1-866-464-6553. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. Always had to set idle above 950. If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Just getting it to act right at startup is a struggle. Holley Sniper Iac Delete I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. I had HIGH Idle issue and fixing this curve FIXED the ISSUE --- THANK YOUCan you explain what "Current Learn % means, after finally fixing the idle problem this % jump from -1 to -30% in about 5 minutes at idle with CTS @ about 170.Also when starting the car at hot the engine goes to about 2300+ RPM for a few seconds then crashes down to my Hot idle speed of 950 -- bounces a little and then smooths out. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. I have an entirely separate article on Solving RF Intereference Issues. Thank you very much. The engine might run hot but if the timing is right it should keep that heat in the engine--which is where the damage turns up. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. I have probably 200 - 300 miles on this engine and it has always done this. From herethe cycle continues and I am Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. This happens no matter how much I adjust the idle screw. So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. I go into much more detail about that in this article on startup tuning. Hi. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. The problem I experience is that after driving for about 10-15 minutes, the car starts idle to high. Not to bandstand here but this is the point when where you bought your system is so important. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. Give it a watch: https://youtu.be/7SO7-tZn6iw. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. Why is this? That is the IAC hold position. Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. Add To Cart. Unfortunately I did not buy my sniper efi from you. Cheers Darren. Okay, try my method. Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. The Street/Strip and race cam setups tend to be too rich initially. In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. The problem was RF interferance . = 2.34 I'd recommend you contact Holley Tech support to get their input (1-866-464-6553; call early for the shortest wait times.) I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) If they are closed, check the primaries. I'll have to check again tomorrow. Have you confirmed your fuel pressure at idle is 60 PSI? Physially manipulating the linkage by hand will generally reveal if you have a sticking linkage that is preventing the TPS from returning from zero. Fortunately, I have an article that goes into this in some detail. Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. knowledge with the sniper efi setup. They tell you to ask call Holley. I installed a sniper efi system on my 1969 Camaro. Capability Range: Moderate The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. The window you saw in the image above pops up. I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. And increasing your idle via the idle screw was also a good idea, because that will lower your amount of IAC that is necessary to keep your engine at the target idle speed. 63 bomb It's not that they (or any other manufacturer) is 100% perfect. My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. I notice at 2-3% tps the iac is 18-25% and it stumbles, when the iac gets to my hold position of 30 it stops. If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. )Then look a the datalog and find out what TPS ROC and MAP ROC is most likely to cause the problem. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. The next time it happens is the perfect opportunity to find the problem. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! The RPM would increase for no reason. This may require shortening or lengthening a rod. When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. Thanks for the great question! Hang in there--you can do it. Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. It could be a couple of things. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at Thank you. All of the wiring exits below the rear fuel injector cover, for a completely stealth installation. no timing control. They are prone to be inaccurate. I will be at a red light trying to brake against the engine. Several good bits here. While adjusting the screw if the TPS position reads begins to read higher than 0% cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero. Changing the rpm curve and target rpm has no effect. This is extremely unreliable afrer warm. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. It will need to see it again and again. Then your low idle problem will go away. Also its extremely rich at idle. EFI System Pro had everything I needed for my EFI upgrade. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. Did your process to adjust idle to 860. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. Seems to be working. The hold position is part of the response that keeps the car from dying when you come off the throttle. By going into the IAC settings and turning off the Idle Spark control and setting Target Idle to 750 RPM my idle issues are gone, and it now returns to desired idle after cruise. Hello Chris. I have certainly seen this before on other fuel injected vehicles when hot. Please check your process again and see if you can see very specifically what is not working correctly. Inj. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750.
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